Chapter 18: Improvisational Hospitality
āChristine McGrath was a host and reservationist, as well as a skilled calligrapher. Since handwritten notes were a big part of what we were doing in those early days, we were already stealing her from her duties on a regular basis. She was the obvious person to step into the role full-time. I hired an additional host to free her up, and just like that, we had a designated person in place to execute our ideasāEleven Madison Parkās first official Dreamweaver.
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Unreasonable Hospitality ā Will Guidara
A Letter from Simon Sinek
āOn its surface, this is a book about a talented entrepreneur who helped transform a middling brasserie in New York City into the best restaurant in the world. However, this book is much bigger and more important than that. It is a book about how to treat people. How to listen. How to be curious. And how to learn to love the feeling of making others feel welcome. It is a book about how to make people feel like they belong.
I stayed late every night that first week designing a template for those line-up notes, so they would be beautiful as well as clear and well-organized. That was unreasonable, but the way you do one thing is the way you do everything, and I wanted those notes to be as thoughtful, as beautifully presented, as the lavender honeyāglazed dry-aged duck we brought to our guests. In this case, the people on staff were the recipients of my hospitality, and I wasnāt going to stand up and talk about excellence without modeling it myself.
Itās a clichĆ© that culture canāt be taught; it has to be caught. And what better way to appreciate the exquisite nature of Danielās food than to spend six months ferrying plates from the kitchen to the table? More important, while we were teaching people the technical points a little bit at a time, it would give them the opportunity to fully absorb the culture we were building, long before they became point person with a guest. And how we chose which people to invite onto the team became central to our success.
Chapter 16: Earning Informality
āThe approach we used to combat this was what we called earning informality. When I started dating my wife, I called her dad Mr. Tosi; I knew Iād earned his trust when he finally told me to call him Gino. Informality is something you earn.ā 9Guidara, āUnreasonable Hospitalityā, p.181)
Chapter 17: Learning to be Unreasonable
āIt is impossible to get a reservation at Raoās. Raoās, which opened in 1896 and serves homestyle Italian American food in Harlem, is a New York institution. And when I say itās impossible to get a reservation there, I mean it: they donāt take them. A select few people āownā tables, and you canāt eat there unless youāre invited by someone who does. After years of asking everyone I knew, I finally managed to wrangle myself an invitation.
Not every guest wanted a history lesson during their dinner. Many were charmed and wanted to engage with us. But some people were there to talk to their companions or to eat; they wanted us to drop off their food and leave them alone. I had stripped the team of their authority to read the table and deliver an appropriate level of detailāto tailor the service experience to the guest. In my pursuit of a sense of place, Iād actually made the meal less hospitable.
Worse, it was essentially the same mistake Iād made the year before, when Iād hesitated to promote a general manager. Once again, the guy known for talking about how much he trusted his team had acted as if he didnāt trust them at all.
In truth, Iām not surprised I made this mistakeāand Iām almost certain Iāll make it again in the future. My compulsive attention to detail is one of my superpowers; itās how I take aim at perfection. But that tendency also means Iām always walking a tightrope between my desire to guarantee excellence by controlling everything and knowing I want to create an environment of empowerment and collaboration and trust among the people who work for me. Like excellence and hospitality, these two qualitiesācontrol and trustāare not friends.