ONE: The Bridge
âAs graduation approached, Huang got a job at Dennyâs. The nationwide restaurant chain was known in that era for its burnt coffee, its reconstituted powdered eggs, its reheated sausage patties, and its round-the-clock operating hours. Huang loved the place. He began as a dishwasher and worked his way up to server. âI find that I think best when Iâm under
adversity. When the world is just falling apart, I actually think my heart rate goes down,â he later said. âMaybe itâs Dennyâs. As a waiter, youâve got to deal with rush hour. Anyone whoâs dealt with rush hour in a restaurant knows what Iâm talking about.
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Of course, Huang would work hard anyway. It is in his nature. If there is a theme to his life, it is amplification; he has executed on the same simple precepts of diligence, courage, and mastery of fundamentals again and again and again, to greater and greater effect. I was surprised to learn how much of the man he later became was present in the immigrant child arriving unaccompanied by his parents in the United States in 1973 to an environment so unconducive to flourishing that it seems a miracle he survived it. To understand Huang fully, we begin not at Dennyâs restaurant, nor in the giant cathedrals of technology he later commissioned, but at this tiny rural school.
He said: âI am so excited to be here; I believe in and love this restaurant with all my heart. Iâm also clear about what my job is, which is to do whatâs best for the restaurant, not to do whatâs best for any of you. More often than not, whatâs best for the restaurant will include doing whatâs best for you. But the only way I can take care of all of you as individuals is by always putting the restaurant first.â I loved this. It was a profoundly confident display of leadershipâboth a rallying cry and a way of telling the team, right away, exactly what they could expect from him as a leader. I was inspired to use that same approach as a template for my own first-day speech. Except that Christopher had worked as a server and a manager at Union Square Cafe for years before that promotion. He knew every inch of the restaurant, and every one of the people in that room, down to their favorite cocktails and the names of their pets. People trusted him. Heâd earned the right to give that speech. I hadnât.
In truth, hiring was hard before we got the culture of the restaurant fully dialed in. When we had an opening, Iâd find someone good to join the teamânot necessarily impeccably trained, but energetic and enthusiastic about the mission. But even if that person was all charged up when they got hired, the residual negativity of some of their colleagues would eventually infect them. The fine-dining crew was still being snooty, and some of the remaining members of the old guard werenât ever going to get on board. Three or four times, I hired someone I thought showed promise. But theyâd last only a month before the flame of their enthusiasm dimmed and died, and then theyâd quit. So the next time a position opened up, I didnât race to fill it. Instead, I waited until another position came open, and then another, and then hired three great people, all at the same time. Instead of one new person cupping their hands, trying to protect the tiny flame of their enthusiasm, that little crew brought a bonfire no one could put out.