Chapter 10: Creating a Culture of Collaboration
âI also had a lot of faith in the guy I was talking to. His name was Leo Robitschek. Maybe youâve heard of himâheâs one of the foremost mixologists in the world now. But at the time, he was working at EMP while putting himself through medical school.
Leo had always been full of great ideas, but he was also the squeakiest wheel, the person on the staff who never failed to let you know why what you were doing was fundamentally flawed and never going to work.
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Invite Your Team Along
Thereâs a fascinating and possibly overlooked advantage that businesses with strong cultures have: when an employee comes up in the organization, any other way of doing things just feels wrong.
And wrong is how EMP felt when I walked in on my first day.
In retrospect, I can now name everything that was going sideways and tell you what I did by way of correction. In the heroic version of this story, I struck a masterful pose and enumerated a number of inspirational management tenets, all of which transformed the restaurant within the week.
But the truth is, Dannyâs way of doing thingsâthe way he treated his employees and guestsâwas so baked into my consciousness that for the first few months I was acting on instinct alone.
Mostly, the team needed to be brought along. They needed to feel seen and appreciated. They needed expectations to be clearly laid out and explained. They needed discipline to be consistent. They needed to feel like vital and important parts of an exciting sea change, not obstacles to making it happen.
From a management perspective, we needed to return to first principles, and at Union Square Hospitality Group, the first principle is to take care of one another. The fine-dining squad hadnât come from within USHGâand even if they had been able to absorb this crucial, employee-centered aspect of the culture, theyâd been so focused on making their mark on the restaurant that theyâd let this central principle fall by the wayside. Thatâs why Danny had insisted the next GM come from within the company; for him, that aspect of the culture was not negotiable.
To bridge the gap between the two factions, improving communication was going to be key. At the same time, we needed systems, so everybody would know what they were supposed to be doing and how they were supposed to be doing it.
It was my hope that both fixes would make the team feel saferâand inspire them to come along on our mission. There was a lot to be done to make the restaurant better, but there would be no point to doing any of it if the people who worked there didnât love coming to work. If I couldnât succeed in getting hearts and minds on board for the bigger project, then the grand vision of a push toward excellence would be dead on arrival.
In truth, hiring was hard before we got the culture of the restaurant fully dialed in. When we had an opening, Iâd find someone good to join the teamânot necessarily impeccably trained, but energetic and enthusiastic about the mission. But even if that person was all charged up when they got hired, the residual negativity of some of their colleagues would eventually infect them. The fine-dining crew was still being snooty, and some of the remaining members of the old guard werenât ever going to get on board. Three or four times, I hired someone I thought showed promise. But theyâd last only a month before the flame of their enthusiasm dimmed and died, and then theyâd quit. So the next time a position opened up, I didnât race to fill it. Instead, I waited until another position came open, and then another, and then hired three great people, all at the same time. Instead of one new person cupping their hands, trying to protect the tiny flame of their enthusiasm, that little crew brought a bonfire no one could put out.
To this day, I canât say for sure what Moira Hodgson was trying to tell us. But the more we learned about Miles and the approach he took to his work, the more inspired we became about how we wanted to approach ours. That throwaway reference turned out to be the greatest gift anyone could have given us. We had been looking for a way to put our ambitions and values into language, to find words for what we wanted to be. Researching Miles gave us eleven of them. I had learned from my dad the importance of intentionalityâknowing what it is youâre trying to do, and making sure everything you do is in service of that goal. From Danny, Iâd learned the importance of articulating that intention to our team.
Not every guest wanted a history lesson during their dinner. Many were charmed and wanted to engage with us. But some people were there to talk to their companions or to eat; they wanted us to drop off their food and leave them alone. I had stripped the team of their authority to read the table and deliver an appropriate level of detailâto tailor the service experience to the guest. In my pursuit of a sense of place, Iâd actually made the meal less hospitable.
Worse, it was essentially the same mistake Iâd made the year before, when Iâd hesitated to promote a general manager. Once again, the guy known for talking about how much he trusted his team had acted as if he didnât trust them at all.
In truth, Iâm not surprised I made this mistakeâand Iâm almost certain Iâll make it again in the future. My compulsive attention to detail is one of my superpowers; itâs how I take aim at perfection. But that tendency also means Iâm always walking a tightrope between my desire to guarantee excellence by controlling everything and knowing I want to create an environment of empowerment and collaboration and trust among the people who work for me. Like excellence and hospitality, these two qualitiesâcontrol and trustâare not friends.