The museum cafĂ©s, meanwhile, were the redheaded stepchildren of USHG, and I loved it. We were flying under the radar and had lots of creative freedom as a result. I immediately set out to implement my vision: to make the cafĂ©s at MoMA corporate-smart and restaurant-smart. But what I discovered almost immediately is that walking that line is really, really hard. Every decision I made seemed to expose the natural tensions between improving the quality of the experience the guests were having and doing what was best for the business. Restaurant-smart meant leading with trustâincluding allowing the people who worked for me to do what they felt was best for the guests. Corporate-smart meant running a tight ship. Which was right?
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Neither EMP nor Tabla was pretentious, but they were fancier places than Iâd ever pictured myself working at; I was (and still am) more cheeseburger than foie gras. Not for the first or last time, I turned to my dad for advice. He addressed my concerns this way: âItâs easier to learn the right way to do things at the high end than it is to break bad habits. You can always take it down a notch later, but itâs harder to go the other way.â A month later, I was a manager at Tabla, running the front-door team. My education had begun.
In restaurant-smart companies, members of the team have more autonomy and creative latitude. Because they tend to feel a greater sense of ownership, they give more of themselves to the job. They can often offer better hospitality because theyâre nimble; there arenât a lot of rules and systems getting in the way of human connection. But those restaurants tend not to have a lot of corporate support or oversightâthe systems that make great businesses.
Corporate-smart companies, on the other hand, have all the back-end systems and controls in areas like accounting, purchasing, and human resources that are needed to make them great businesses, and theyâre often more profitable as a result. But systems are, by definition, controlsâand the more control you take away from the people on the ground, the less creative they can be, and guests can feel that.
Restaurant-smart companies can be great businesses, and corporate-smart companies can deliver great hospitality. But their priorities are different, in ways that fundamentally affect the guestsâ experience.
Iâve made it my mission to help the people who work for me see whatâs important about what they do. Even at MoMA, we didnât see our guests as a bunch of customers looking for lunch; we saw them as museumgoersâpeople on an adventure, realizing their dream of being inspired at one of the greatest modern art museums on earth. That simple shift had an automatic and profound impact on how our team acted, and on the hospitality our guests received.
I speak to people across industries and in different fields. When I encounter someone who thinks their work doesnât matter, itâs usually because they havenât dug deep enough to recognize the importance of the role they play. When I spoke at a real estate conference, it was easy for me to tell when someone was operating with passion and purpose. Many told me they sold houses; the great ones understood they were selling homes. This applies to every industry I can think of. You can be in the financial services business, or in the business of providing people with a plan so they can provide a future for their families.
We spent a lot of time in our manager meetings talking about how to make this more efficient. We ended up stealing a solution from baseball, where the catcher has to communicate with a pitcher sixty feet away: sign language.
After the host brought you to the table, the captain would hand you menus and ask about your water preference. Moments later, and without any visible communicationâoften before the captain had even left the tableâyour server would be at the table, pouring your preferred water choice.
It wasnât magic; the captain had discreetly signaled your preference to one of their colleagues using a hand gesture (wiggled fingers for bubbles, a straight chop for still, and a twist of the fist for ice) behind their back. Another issue was that the room felt busy. It took a lot of people to execute hospitality at this level, but too many bodies moving swiftly around a roomâeven one as big as the dining room at EMPâcan feel chaotic. In a bustling brasserie, servers zigzagging through the room lends an exciting energy; in a fine-dining setting, the commotion feels disruptive.
So we established traffic patterns for the staff like the ones on city streets, though they were imperceptible to our guests. Corners had invisible stop or yield signs. Most of the room was one-way only, and the traffic moved clockwise. In a two-way corridor, you hugged the wall to the right, as you would if you were driving.
Not every guest wanted a history lesson during their dinner. Many were charmed and wanted to engage with us. But some people were there to talk to their companions or to eat; they wanted us to drop off their food and leave them alone. I had stripped the team of their authority to read the table and deliver an appropriate level of detailâto tailor the service experience to the guest. In my pursuit of a sense of place, Iâd actually made the meal less hospitable.
Worse, it was essentially the same mistake Iâd made the year before, when Iâd hesitated to promote a general manager. Once again, the guy known for talking about how much he trusted his team had acted as if he didnât trust them at all.
In truth, Iâm not surprised I made this mistakeâand Iâm almost certain Iâll make it again in the future. My compulsive attention to detail is one of my superpowers; itâs how I take aim at perfection. But that tendency also means Iâm always walking a tightrope between my desire to guarantee excellence by controlling everything and knowing I want to create an environment of empowerment and collaboration and trust among the people who work for me. Like excellence and hospitality, these two qualitiesâcontrol and trustâare not friends.